.
99.
a. Trial fit the fin on top of the stab. You will have to trim the center top stringer to fit against the fin leading edge, and
the fin trailing edge will need a small cutout to clear the elevator joiner. The extended tail post on the fin should be in
good contact with the fuselage end. If the stabilizer has been covered, cut away the covering material where the fin
attaches.
b. Epoxy the fin to the top of the stabilizer and the rear of the fuselage, using a triangle to make certain it is vertical.
Also, make sure that the fin is not offset to one side or the other by viewing it from above.
100.
a. Brace the bottom of the fin leading edge to the bottom of the stabilizer using small lengths of 3/8" triangle stock. See
the "Cross Section at Base of Fin Leading Edge" (Plate 2) for more information.
b. Install R-6 on the front of the fin. When dry, sand the edge round.
c. Add the 1/8"x1/4" balsa fabric attach strips to each side of the fin. The bottom edge must be beveled slightly to blend
in with the top stringers at the front. The rear edge of the fabric attach strips should blend smoothly into the sides of
the fin at the back.
d. Glue small scraps of 1/8"x3/8" balsa between the outermost top stringers and the balsa fill strips, just forward of the
stabilizer leading edge. These scraps provide a place for the covering material to attach in this area.
e. Blend the fin post into the fuselage sides using scraps of balsa glued to each side of the fin. The balsa scraps should
be sanded flush with the fill strips at the front and tapered down to nothing at the back edge of the fin post.
101.
a. Position the formed tailwheel leafspring on the die-cut lite-ply TWM tailwheel mount and mark the location of the
mounting bolts. Drill TWM at the marks with a 3/16" drill bit. Mount the leafspring using the 10-32 x 3/4" machine
screws and the square nuts provided.
b. Epoxy the nuts firmly in place being careful not to get any glue on the machine screws. When dry, remove the
leafspring.
c. Trim away the balsa fill strips on the bottom longeron in the area where the tailwheel mount fastens to the fuselage.
The spruce longerons will have to be relieved slightly to allow room for the square nuts. Drill a relief area into the
longerons to clear the rear mounting bolt. TWM should now fit flat against the bottom of the fuselage and fin.
d. Epoxy TWM in place, being careful not to get any glue in the threads of the square nuts.
NOTE: The tailwheel steering springs supplied in the kit must be stretched to their
proper length before they are installed. Grab each end of a spring with pliers and
pull until you feel it "give". Don't overstretch it! It's easier to lengthen it a little
more than to shorten it. With no tension on them, the pre-stretched springs
should be about two inches long, as shown in the drawing.
LANDING GEAR CONSTRUCTION
NOTE: The completed wing center
section is needed before the landing
gear can be assembled.
HELPFUL HINT:
Under the stress of a painfully hard landing, the 1/8"
bottom shock strut wire will want very much to part
company with the solder joints that bind it. Now, if
those solder joints are flawless, the shock strut wire
will surely be held fast. But, since very few of us are
flawless, chances are good that our solder joints will
be somewhat less than perfect. To help keep the
ends of that shock strut wire firmly entrenched
between the main I.g. wires, we suggest that you file
or grind small notches into the shock strut wire as illustrated here. Now solder
will flow into the notches and "lock" the shock strut in place, thus avoiding the
unhappy possiblity described earlier!
102.
Position the 3/16" front main I.g.wire and
the 3/16" rear main I.g. wire in the
grooved landing gear mounts in the wing
center section. The rear landing gear
block will have to be notched on both
sides to allow the rear wire to swing
forward.
Summary of Contents for SIGRC61
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