background image

 

Cab: 

1.

 

Whilst the cab etch (P4) is still flat fit a 3.0mm cab door handrail into the holes provided.  Insert a small bit of paper 
(photocopy paper thickness is ideal) between the handrail and the cab so that when soldered there will be a space beneath 
the handrail after the paper is withdrawn when the soldering is done.  If you need to open the holes up use a 0.3mm or 
no79-80 drill 

2.

 

Using long-nose pliers bend the cab front (P4) into the familiar shape of the ‘Y’ class.  Only a small amount is needed.  

Fold lines are marked on the inside of the cab

 

3.

 

Fold the remaining sides until the back of the cab meets and aligns and solder.  View from above and push/pull the cab into 
shape and looks as it should for a Y class 

 

4.

 

Test fit the cab onto the walkway and then tin the area where the cab will sit on the walkway (P1) and also the bottom 
edges of the cab (P4) itself 

5.

 

Test fit the cab (P4) so that its edge is in line with the same shape that is in the walkway (P1) near the steps.  When 
happy that the cab is central and conforms to the shape of the walkway, solder one edge near the front and then check for 
alignment again.  If all is well solder the remaining sides of the cab to the floor 

6.

 

Fit 3.5mm handrails for the remaining 2 cab handrails into the holes provided.  If you need to open the holes up use a 
0.3mm or no79-80 drill to clear away excess solder 

7.

 

Glue a loco headlight (P5) into the square above the front door window 

 

 

Cab roof: 

Note -The large fold lines are on the underside of the cab roof. 

1.

 

Insert 2 lift rings (P23) into the holes provided on top of the roof (P7) and solder/glue from underneath.  Enlarge the 

holes if necessary carefully with no 78-drill bit or a 0.3mm drill bit.  Trim the excess length of lift rings below the roofline 
once soldered.  It may be easier to spot the holes by looking at the underside of the cab roof 

2.

 

Fold the cab roof (P7) to the cab profile and set it aside.  This is glued in place after painting during the final assembly 

 
Long Hood: 

1.

 

Run a small bead of solder along the fold line of the nose where it meets the long hood roof (P8)

 This is a safety 

precaution so that you don’t accidentally break it off during the next steps

 

2.

 

Make 2 x 2mm handrails that will fit into the long hood (P8) roof near the rear grill.  They run across the long hood.  Again 
use paper to space and solder the handrails into place and enlarge the holes if necessary carefully with no 78-drill bit or a 
0.3mm drill bit 

3.

 

Fit and solder the long hood handrails (P9) into the holes provided along the side of the long hood.  Use a paper spacer to 
make the handrails stand proud of the long hood sides 

Summary of Contents for SDLocoY1

Page 1: ...ssor clamps weights soldering aids Blu Tak 0 3mm drill bit pin vice tweezers Other items decoder wire 2B pencil paint couplers LifeLike SW9 1200 loco for motor bogies weights and phosphorous bronze pickups etc Assembly Instructions Some steps require close attention and they are highlighted in bold and italics Parts referred to in the text are marked P1 P2 etc All brass parts and their holding tab...

Page 2: ...s for the remaining 2 cab handrails into the holes provided If you need to open the holes up use a 0 3mm or no79 80 drill to clear away excess solder 7 Glue a loco headlight P5 into the square above the front door window Cab roof Note The large fold lines are on the underside of the cab roof 1 Insert 2 lift rings P23 into the holes provided on top of the roof P7 and solder glue from underneath Enl...

Page 3: ...ong nose pliers 10 Using your hands fold up the sides of the long hood Don t worry about the section near the cab not matching the profile as yet 11 Bend the rear long hood nose up to meet the sides of the long hood and pay attention so that the bottom edge meets the side s bottom edges as well This may take a few pushes and tweaks with the pliers to achieve this Once satisfied solder one edge bot...

Page 4: ... See photo below 3 Fit a plywood step P15 on the floor of the walkway behind the rear cab door 4 Fit a plywood step P15 on the floor of the walkway in front of the cab front door 5 Glue lift rings P23 into the 3 holes provided on the long end roof and shown below in the diagram 6 Glue the long hood rear wall light P5 onto the square provided 7 In the first hole P14 behind the cab bend a small piec...

Page 5: ...e attached to the body 3 Remove the cab shell after unplugging the centre handrails from the cab The cab weight will be used later 4 Pushing down on the exposed mechanism whilst holding the walkway gradually slide the mechanism out of the plastic shell being careful not to damage the phosphor bronze pickups LifeLike mechanism with the shell removed 5 Remove the long hood from the walkway and dispo...

Page 6: ...the cab end of the motor cut out hole paying very careful attention so that it sits square and vertical with the chassis floor The scribed line points away from the motor and to the headstock end 5 Repeat the same procedure for the wide motor mounting fork P27 that is for the long hood again making sure that the scribed line points away from the motor and to the other headstock end 6 Run beads of ...

Page 7: ...ng to the top Push the motor down into the cradle until snaps into the forks paying attention so that the decoder wires sit in the rear slots provided in the chassis 7 Solder the 18mm decoder wire to the long phosphor bronze tab 8 Solder the 12mm decoder wire to the long phosphor bronze tab 9 Make sure the pickups are at about 30 degrees 10 Glue P36 coupler spacers at each end of the chassis so th...

Page 8: ...urning to get the coupler into position or you can file a very small amount on each side and the bottom of the coupler pocket to allow the unit to slide in from the front Painting The whole etch needs to be cleaned before priming and final colour application All excess solder should be minimised There are several ways of cleaning brass but to bathe the brass in warmed Vinegar for 20 minutes is rec...

Page 9: ...at Seymour 1988 Chris Pearce Y134 Courtesy of Peter Vincent Y 122 Dynon 1980 s Note the fuel gauge compared to Y173 below Chris Pearce Long hood end of Y112 note the missing VR in the chevron Photo courtesy of Mark Bau Air tank arrangement courtesy of Peter ...

Page 10: ...uel tank pipe cab end Photo courtesy Dave Crowhurst Fuel tank top side view Photo courtesy Dave Crowhurst Fireman s side Photo courtesy Dave Crowhurst Driver s side Photo courtesy Dave Crowhurst Y139 doing what it does best Photo courtesy of Geoff Winkler ...

Reviews: