Photo 1
Photo 2
Installation
Before installation of this antenna there are a
few things you might have to consider. To get
peak performance you need to mount the
antenna as high as possible on the vehicle, also
try to separate it as much as possible from other
antennas that might be on the vehicle.
We designed this antenna around using a mount
that directly mounts to ground, like a ball mount
(Photo 1). This type of mount works well.
Included with the antenna is a ferrite core that
needs to be mounted on the control wire as close
as possible to the antenna. Loop the wire
through the choke at least 3 times. This choke
(Photo 2) does two things, first it helps reduce
antenna motor noise during tuning, second it
decouples the control wire from the antenna;
without this core, the antenna will be untunable.
Next is the control box and control cable. We
preassemble everything here so you'll have a
plug and play system. If for some reason you need to cut the wires, the color
codes are as follows:
Initial Tune Up
For the initial tune up a SWR analyzer is nice to have if you have access to one. If not,
make all your adjustments with low power. Now, lower your antenna until it reaches
the end stop and go to 10 meters and check your SWR, you might have to raise
the antenna a small amount to come into 10 meters, next go to 15 meters and
check your SWR, it should be low. Next, you can go to 20 meters and raise the
antenna until you get a SWR dip there. Then 40, then so on.
Keep in mind that 10-20 meters are close together. If the SWR doesn't go below
1.5 on these bands the ground is most likely the problem, remember the ground
needs to right at the base of the antenna.
If properly installed this antenna will have a standing wave below 1.5 from 3.5 to 30
MHz. We know that every antenna installation is unique and it is impossible to
describe all the scenarios in this manual. However, if you are having problems with
