24
25
®
®
Tuning the Rear End of the Speed-T
Shock Location
: Moving the shocks out on the arm will result
in less forward traction and let the Speed-T make more of an arc
through the exit of the turn. In general, when changing shock
locations on the arm, it will be necessary to go down one spring
rate when moving out on the arm.
Static Camber
: Having the same definition as for the front end
and measured in the same fashion, rear camber can also be a
critical tuning feature. Testing has shown that running a small
amount of negative camber (.5-1 degree) is best. Increasing
negative rear camber (in the range of 1.5-3 degrees) will
increase stability and traction in corners, but decrease high
speed stability. Decreasing rear camber (in the range of 0-1.5
degrees) will decrease stability and traction in corners, but will
increase high speed stability.
Inboard Camber Location
: The Speed-T has multiple rear
camber locations. Using a longer camber link will improve
stability and traction (grip). Using a shorter camber link will
increase steering while decreasing rear grip. Running the
camber link in the inside position on the shock tower will give
your Speed-T more steering entering the turn as it will let
the Speed-T set over the rear tire and give you more forward
traction exiting the turn. As you move the camber link towards
the outside of the Speed-T, you will gain less initial steering,
however, you will gain more steering as the Speed-T exits the
turn. The Speed-T now has the capabilities of a lower row of
holes in the rear shock tower for the inner camber link location.
The lower hole gives the Speed-T more camber gain (more
angle relative to arm = more camber gain). This can be helpful
when tracks get bumpy and rutted to help the rear end of the
Speed-T go through the bumps easier due to the increased
camber gain of the tires.
Outboard Camber Location
: Running the camber link in the
inside position on the hub will generate more rotation entering
a turn, but decrease steering on exit. Running the camber link
in the furthest outer position on the hub will generate more
stability entering a turn and increase steering on exit.
Toe-In
: Having the same definition as for the front end, the toe-
in can be adjusted on the Speed-T with the rear hubs. The stock
toe-in is 3 degrees of inboard per side and 0 degrees in the hub.
Increasing rear toe-in will increase forward traction and initial
steering, but reduce straightaway speed. Decreasing rear toe-in
will decrease forward traction and “free-up” the Speed-T. Less
toe-in can be used to gain top speed.
Anti/Pro-Squat
: Increasing anti-squat is generated by raising
the front of the pivot block, relative to the rear of the pivot.
This will increase initial steering and forward traction. You can
increase anti-squat in 1 degree increments by using two .030"
washers between the front of the pivot plate and pivot block.
Pro-squat is generated by raising the rear of the pivot relative to
the front. This will decrease forward traction and initial steering,
but provide more on-power steering on high traction surfaces.
Pro-squat will also help the Speed-T from pulling wheelies on
high bite surfaces. Also available is an aftermarket part that is a
0 degree rear pivot block (LOSA2112), if pro-squat is desired it is
best to start with this option.
Tuning the Chassis of the Speed-T
Slipper Adjustment:
This should be done after the locker-diff
is properly adjusted (see page 25). After fully tightening the
adjustment nut (so the coils of the spring just touch) loosen the
slipper adjustment nut 2 1/4 turns. This will be a good starting
point for your slipper settings. Too loose and the vehicle will not
have acceleration, and too tight will pop wheelies but can result
in a broken locker-diff gear.
Ride Height
: This is the height of the chassis in relation to the
surface. It is an adjustment that affects the way your Speed-T
jumps, turns and goes through bumps. To check the ride
height, drop one end (front or rear) of the Speed-T from about
a 5-6 inch height onto a flat surface. Once the Speed-T settles
into a position, check the height of that end of the Speed-T in
relationship to the surface. To raise the ride height, lower the
shock adjuster nuts on the shock evenly on the end (front or
rear) of the Speed-T that you are working on. To lower the ride
height, raise the shock adjuster nuts. Both left and right nuts
should be adjusted evenly.
You should start with the rear ride height where the Speed-T
comes to a rest at a height where the dog bones are slightly
below level with the surface. The front ride height should be
set so that the bottom of the chassis is level with the surface.
Occasionally, you may want to raise the front ride height to
get a little quicker steering reaction but be careful as this can
also make the Speed-T easily flip over. Every driver likes a little
different feel so you should try small ride height adjustments
to obtain the feel you like. This should be one of the last
adjustments after everything else has been dialed in (tuned).
Do not use ride height adjustment as a substitute for a change
in spring rate. If your Speed-T needs a softer or firmer spring,
change the spring. Do not think that simply moving the shock
nuts will change the stiffness of the spring; it will not.
Battery Position
: This is a critical adjustment that is often
overlooked but can be very useful. Start by running the battery
spaced in the middle (standard setup with 6-cell battery pack).
Moving the battery back can improve rear traction on slippery
surfaces and steering response. Moving the battery back too
far can cause the rear end to swing through turns on some
tracks and “dump” the rear end causing instability issues. This is
a result of having the weight too far back. The Speed-T comes
equipped with two foam battery spacers to split the difference
when adjusting the battery position, hence offering a middle
position when either extreme is inadequate.
Camber Rise Relationship
: The Speed-T setup out of the box
comes with less front camber gain than the rear camber gain.
The reason for this is that less front camber lets the front end
drive flatter and makes the Speed-T more stable. By having
more camber gain in the rear, the Speed-T has more rear
traction, this helps the rear tires accelerate through the bumps
and ruts.
Wheels and Tires
The tires come pre-mounted with the vehicle and should be
checked to make certain they stay glued to the wheels. The
wheel spinning speeds this vehicle is capable of tend to pull the
rubber tire away from the rim. When a tire or tires come loose
from the rim you will notice the vehicle is hard to control.
Tip the vehicle on its side and using both hands to hold one
wheel at a time, use your thumb to press the tire away from
the rim. If you see a tire pull away for the rim use Losi Tire Glue
(LOSA7880 thick or LOSA7881 thin) to re-glue. It only takes a
small drop of glue generally. Be careful this is CA-type glue and
you do not want to glue your fingers to the wheel and tire.
Use safety goggles when gluing tires.
Check the mounting of the tire periodically to ensure proper
performance and handling.
Steering Assembly
: Occasionally, check the steering assembly
and you may notice increased looseness. There are several
components which will wear out from use: tie rod ends
(part LOSA6074), the servo saver (part LOSA1610), the bell
crank bushings (part LOSA1620), and the Drag link ball ends
(LOSA6074). You can easily replace these components to restore
factory specifications.
Note: The bell crank bushings may be replaced with
ball bearings (part LOSA6912).
Locker Differential (Spool)
(Standard equipment for Speed-T)
The Speed-T makes use of a locker rear differential to equally
deliver the power to the rear wheels.
The Locker differential will operate with minimal maintenance.
If you need to take it apart for any maintenance, use the
exploded view to reassemble. The differential adjustment screw
should be tightened quite tightly using a blade screwdriver
(90 to 100 inch pounds). After you reassemble the vehicle hold
one wheel and attempt to turn the other, it should take a lot of
force to make it turn if any. If the wheels turn you can remove
the rear dog bone and expose the adjusting screw. Tighten the
screw another 1/8th turn and try again.
Note: If you are running the Speed-T in Off-Road
conditions, you may want to use the optional
standard ball differential. You can rebuild the Locker
differential into the standard differential by removing
and disassembling the transmission. Take apart the
Locker Differential and remove the two thin pads in
the diff gear. You will see there are 12 holes exposed
after doing this. Using Losi diff balls (LOSA6951) insert
them carefully into these holes. Use a small amount of
Losi Diff Grease (LOSA3065) during reassembly. Then
after reassembly of the transmission and installation
into the vehicle. Please refer to “Standard Ball
Differential Adjustment” for further instructions.
Suspension
: Periodically inspect the model for signs of damage
such as bent or dirty suspension pins, bent turnbuckles, loose
screws and any signs of stress or bending. Replace components
as needed.
Outdrives
: Inspect both outdrive halves for signs of wear. After
extended use they will develop a wear mark or notch in them.
It requires that you remove the transmission, then disassemble
the locker differential. The replacement outdrives are part
number LOSA3073.
Completed Locker Diff/Spool
Optional Differential Setup with
Steel balls and grease ready for conversion
