Tekno EB 410, Building Instructions

The purpose of making adjustments is to make the car go faster around the track, or to make it  more controllable, or both if possible. A car 

that's easier to drive should produce lower, more consistent lap times.  It will also inspire more confidence in the driver, which is always 

good when nerves start getting the best of you.

Before you start thinking about changing your car's setup, consider these two things:  First, is the car in perfect working order?  Be sure 

that all of the suspension components operate freely without excessive play, and that the car isn't tweaked.  Binding and worn out parts 

will result in poor performance and inconsistent handling.  Second, always consider tires before making other adjustments.  Time spent 

trying to get the vehicle to work with the wrong tires mounted will be wasted time.  Without the right tires, even a great setup won’t be a 

winning setup.

Bumpsteer

MORE

bump o

ut

bump o

ut

LESS

Ackermann

Effect

LESS

MORE

DR

OO

P M

EA

SU

RE

M

EN

T

AD

JU

ST

 H

ER

E

Droop

Ride height is the distance from the bottom of the chassis to the running surface.  Ride height should 

only be checked and adjusted with your vehicle ready to run (i.e. with battery installed/body on).  Ride 

height is the first adjustment to be made and should be set with a ride height measurement tool.  Mea-

surements should be taken from the flat parts of the chassis, front and rear.  Be sure to measure the 

front ride height at a point before the kick up in the chassis starts.  To measure ride height, first make 

sure the suspension is completely free, then simultaneously compress the front and rear all the way 

down and let the vehicle settle.  Take your measurement from that position.  Use the shock spring 

adjustment collars to raise or lower the ride height to your desired setting.  18 - 20mm front and 21 - 

23mm rear is a good starting point.

Think of bump steer as active toe when the suspen-

sion compresses or rebounds.  To adjust bump steer 

you have to change the angle of the steering link.  

This is accomplished by adding or removing washers 

under the ball end on the steering spindles.  Anytime 

you change camber link locations, front arm pills, 

front arm spacers, or Ackermann you will need to 

check and possibly adjust your bumpsteer.  It's best 

to start with zero bumpsteer or slight bump out.

Think of Ackermann as active toe 

when the steering moves from left 

to right.  More ackermann effect 

makes more toe out at full turn and 

produces more steering off-power.  

Less ackermann effect makes less 

toe out at full turn and produces 

more steering on-power.  A good 

starting point is 4 washers behind 

the ball stud (2mm).

Ride Height

MEASUREMENT

Camber

CAM

BE

R

Static camber affects the car’s side to side traction.  More negative camber front and rear quick-

ens rotation in corners.  Less negative camber will make the vehicle easier to drive but you may 

give up some responsiveness (i.e. steering).  To set your static camber have your vehicle at ride 

height (see above) and adjust the camber links until desired angle is achieved.  Please note that a 

large adjustment of front camber will affect front toe and you may have to readjust the toe and 

then re-check front camber again.  A good starting measurement for camber is 1-2 degrees in 

the front and 1.5-2.5 degrees in the rear.

Front toe is used to describe the angle in which the front wheels point when looking down at 

them from the top of a vehicle.  You will always use some amount of toe out.  Toe-out will 

affect how your vehicle enters and exits corners.  More toe out will result in more off-power 

steering and less on-power steering and less toe out will have the opposite results.  To set your 

front toe, have your vehicle at ride height (see above) and adjust the steering links until desired 

angle is achieved.  Please note that a large adjustment of front toe will affect front camber and 

you may have to readjust the camber and then re-check front toe again.  A good starting point 

is approximately 1-2 degrees of toe out.

Droop is the measured amount of down travel in the suspension.  It is measured from the shock mounting 

points while the vehicle is up on a stand allowing the arms to hang freely and is adjusted by turning the 

droop screw located in the suspension arms front/rear.  This screw limits the suspension travel by 

providing a stopping point against the chassis.  Left and right sides should always be equal, however the 

front and rear of the vehicle can have different values.  Droop affects all aspects of chassis 

performance, including: braking, acceleration, jumping, traction and bump handling.  A good 

starting droop measurement is 78mm front and 88mm rear.

Front Toe

OUT____IN

IN____OUT

26

Set Up Information