Timex Waterbury Regulator 61, Instruction Manual

9

inserted the smaller end of the threads (which I filed down) into the rim of brass that was 
the head of the nut and peened the end down by hammering it flat so that it wouldn’t slip 
when it was screwed in.  After the new threads were stuck tight in the rim, I drilled a hole 
through them, creating a threaded bushing, and eventually sized that hole to fit the escape 

wheel pivot.  When I drilled the hole, I chucked up on the threads 
instead of the rim so that I could drill the hole centered in the 
threads.  This was important since the escape wheel turned in that 
hole and it was necessary that it be in the center of the threads so 
the escape wheel wouldn’t wobble.  
Before I sized the hole to the pivot, I 
polished the head of the mostly original 

nut and countersunk it to give the 
impression that it was made entirely out 

of one piece of brass, as the original nut was.  Magnificently, it 
looks entirely original, and I’m very proud of it!  We actually 
had to solder the threads to the hole, because they kept falling 
out during the sizing process, but it’s not visible and makes the 
nut a good deal stronger but softens the brass somewhat.  After 
sizing the hole, we had to shave off the end of the nut so it would screw down tightly and 
completely and still allow the escape wheel some end shake, or space between the plate 
and the shoulder of the pivot.  Now, the escape wheel can move freely and securely, as 
opposed to being sloppy and inaccurate as it undoubtedly was with such a bad nut.  In 

passing, there was another screw I had to create so that the plates 
would screw down correctly and fully.  This was done in a very 
similar fashion, except it was done 
with steel and not brass.  My goal 
was to make a longer screw to 
bypass a stripped upper portion of 
one of the pillar posts.  With skill 

and care, I fashioned a screw out of a piece of O-1 tool steel, polished it, and blued it with 
gentle heating.  According to the Machinery’s Handbook, heating the steel gently, creates 
an oxidization of the steel resulting in a colored coating that not only matches the other 
screws on the clock, but also acts as a rust preventative.  To my equal pride and dismay, 
it looks noticeably newer, shinier, and better polished than the original screws.  The old 
screw is included with the clock upon set-up in the school. 
 

Bushing – For Real Now 

With the escape wheel secured and happy, I was ready to do standard bushings as 
planned.  After sizing the new pivot holes of two gears, I countersunk them to the plate.  
This means I created a “bowl” with the pivot hole at its base, as shown in the picture of 
the repaired hand nut.  This is done so that pivots better receive oil, but it also hides the 
bushing since the plate and bushing are both on the same plane after countersinking, to 
the effect that they’re indistinguishable from each other.  It only serves to look more 
professional when a movement appears entirely original and unaltered.  I countersunk not 
only my own bushings, but also the bushings that were inserted by other repairmen at 
various times.

Shaving off the end for 

End-Shake 

Repaired Hand Nut