TAXIING
Start the engine and set the throttle trim for a slow, steady idle. Have
your instructor or a helper hold the plane while you work the
controls. Upon release advance the throttle slightly to start rolling,
then back-off the power to prevent going too fast and possibly taking
off. Stand behind the plane as it taxies away from you and note the
direction it turns as you move the rudder control. One thing to keep
in mind with R/C models (whether it be cars, boats, or planes) is that
the steering controls may seem to “reverse” when the model is
moving toward you. For example, if you are flying toward yourself,
and you give a right control input (ailerons or rudder), the model will
move off to your left. The fact of the matter is, of course, that the
controls are not reversed and the aircraft did actually enter a right
turn. The plane does move off to your left from your vantage point,
but if you imagined yourself in the cockpit you would realize the
plane turned to the right as commanded. All it takes is a little practice
to maintain proper orientation of your aircraft, but that’s why we
recommend finding an instructor.
When you feel comfortable, advance the throttle a little while
standing behind the plane to get the feel of a takeoff roll, but pull
back on the power before the model lifts off. Try this several times,
adding a little more power each time. Use the rudder stick on your
transmitter to steer the plane with the nose wheel while on the
ground If the plane starts to veer off, immediately cut the power to
prevent a mishap.
Although many R/C pilots have taught themselves to fly, we strongly
recommend that you find an instructor to help get you started.
Although trainers offer the greatest opportunity of success for the
self-taught, there is a high probability that you will crash your
airplane on the first flight. Protect your investment of time and
money—obtain the assistance of an experienced R/C pilot.
TAKEOFF
Your first flights should be made in little or no wind. If you have dual
rates on your transmitter, set the switches to “low rate” for takeoff. Taxi
into position, pointing directly into the wind. Although this model has
good low speed characteristics, you should always build up as much
speed as your runway will permit before lifting off, as this will give
you a safety margin in case of a “flame-out.” Advance the throttle
smoothly to the wide open setting. When the plane has sufficient
flying speed (you won’t know until you try), lift off by smoothly
applying a little up elevator (don’t force it off into a steep climb!), and
climb out gradually, trying to keep it straight and the wings level.
Climb to about 100 feet before starting a VERY gentle turn by moving
the aileron stick. Apply a little more back pressure on the elevator
stick as the model turns. Stop the turn by moving the aileron stick in
the opposite direction until the wings are level, then return the stick
to the neutral position. Pull the power back to 1/2 throttle.
FLYING
We recommend that you take it easy with your model for the first
several flights and gradually “get acquainted” with the plane as your
engine becomes fully broken-in. Trainers are designed to fly level
with neutral elevator trim at approximately 1/3 - 1/2 throttle — this
is the best speed for learning to fly. On later flights, if you want your
model to maintain level flight at full throttle, you will need to give it
a little down trim.
Your first flights should consist of mostly straight and level flight with
gentle turns to keep the model over the field. These flights will give you
practice at coordinating your control inputs and maintaining the
proper orientation of the airplane. As mentioned earlier, turns are
accomplished by banking the aircraft with the ailerons then gently
adding some back stick (up elevator). Enough back stick should be
held in to keep the aircraft at a constant altitude. To stop turning, apply
opposite aileron to level the wings, then release the stick. There is a
memory aid that may help keep you out of trouble when the plane is
flying toward you — “put the stick under the low wing.” In other
words, move the aileron stick in the direction of the low wing to raise
that wing. When you are comfortable flying the aircraft, you can
practice using the rudder along with the ailerons to “coordinate” the
turns — usually, a small amount of rudder applied in the direction of
the turn will keep the tail following in the exact same track as the nose.
The most common mistake when learning to fly is “over control.”
Think of pressure instead of large movements of the control sticks.
Remember, most trainers will recover from almost any over control
situation (given enough altitude) if you simply let go of the sticks.
Add and practice one maneuver at a time, learning how your model
behaves in each one. For ultra-smooth flying and normal maneuvers,
we recommend using the “low rate” settings as listed on page 18.
High rate control throws will give your model enough control for
loops, barrel rolls, and many other basic aerobatic maneuvers.
After you have several flights on your model, it’s time to reward
yourself with your first aerobatic maneuver — a loop. Climb to a safe
altitude and turn into the wind. Apply full throttle, level the wings,
then slowly pull back on the elevator stick to about 1/2 to 3/4 up
elevator (depending on your throws), and hold this control input.
After you go over the top and start down the back side of the loop,
pull the throttle back to about half. This will keep the stresses on the
airplane low and the airspeed relatively constant. Keep holding “up”
elevator until the plane is level, then slowly release the stick. You’re
done! It’s really that easy!
CAUTION (THIS APPLIES TO ALL R/C AIRPLANES): If, while flying,
you notice any unusual sounds, such as a low-pitched “buzz,” this
may be an indication of control surface “flutter.” Because flutter can
quickly destroy components of your airplane, any time you detect
flutter you must immediately cut the throttle and land the airplane!
Check all servo grommets for deterioration (this will indicate which
surface fluttered), and make sure all pushrod linkages are slop-free.
If it fluttered once, it will probably flutter again under similar
circumstances unless you can eliminate the slop or flexing in the
linkages. Here are some things which can result in flutter: excessive
hinge gap; not mounting control horns solidly; sloppy fit of clevis pin
in horn; elasticity present in flexible plastic pushrods; side-play of
pushrod in guide tube caused by tight bends; sloppy fit of Z-bend in
servo arm; insufficient glue used when gluing in the elevator joiner
wire or aileron torque rod; excessive flexing of aileron, caused by
using too soft balsa aileron; excessive “play” or “backlash” in servo
gears; and insecure servo mounting.
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