Tower Hobbies UPROAR, Instruction Manual

16

If not, 

lightly

 sand the 

high side

 of the stab saddle to correct the 

problem. Once fully aligned, use 30-minute epoxy to glue the 
stab in position. Hold it in position with masking tape and pins 
until the epoxy has cured.

❍

 4. Pin the fin on the centerline of the stab. Check its 

alignment with the centerline of the fuse with a long 
straightedge, then mark its aligned location. Glue the fin to 
the stab with 6-minute epoxy. Make sure the fin is square to 
the stab with a drafting triangle, then pin and tape the fin in 
position until the epoxy cures.

❍ 

5. Cut pieces of 3/8" triangular balsa to fit on both sides of 

the fin, as shown on the plans. Round off the front and rear 
ends for better appearance. Glue them securely in position 
to the stab and fin.

❍ 

6. Finish sheeting the bottom of the fuse with 3/32" x 4" 

balsa sheet from F2 to just past the front edge of the front 
bottom hatch rail.

❍ 

7. Cut the bottom hatch cover from 3/32" x 4" balsa. Fit the 

hatch, then drill 1/16" pilot holes through the hatch and hatch 
rails. 

TIP:

 Use leftover balsa to reinforce the hatch cover by 

applying two or three cross-grain strips to the inside surface.

COVERING AND FINISHING

We recommend using a lightweight film covering material 
such as

 TowerKote

™

 film to finish your Uproar. For best 

results, apply the film following the manufacturer’s 
instructions using the sequence we suggest on page 17.

REPAIRING SURFACE DINGS

Many surface blemishes on a framed model are caused by 
bumps and balsa chips on the work surface. This type of ding 
is best repaired by applying a drop or two of window cleaner 
or tap water to the blemish, then running a 

hot 

sealing iron 

over the spot to expand the wood fibers. After the surface has 
dried, sand the 

expanded

 area smooth.

FINAL SANDING

Fill any scuffs, dings and the forward end of the pushrod tube 
exit slots with balsa filler. After the filler has hardened, cut 
and sand the pushrod tubes flush with the fuse sides, then 
sand the entire structure with progressively finer grades of 
sandpaper, ending with 320-grit.

FUELPROOFING

Fuelproof the firewall and fuel tank compartment by painting 
them with thinned 30-minute epoxy. Prevent the epoxy 
from

clogging the blind nuts by first packing the holes with 

petroleum jelly applied with a toothpick. Be sure to 

clean

 off 

any “external” petroleum jelly “messes” with rubbing alcohol 
before fuelproofing.