13
STEP 15:
Remove the connecting rod and piston through the top
of the crankcase.
STEP 16:
To remove the connecting rod from the piston, use
a
sh
ar
p-p
oi
nte
d
to
ol
to
re
m
ove
th
e s
m
al
l m
et
al
G-clip in the side of the piston. Do not re-use the old
G-clip. When installing a new connecting rod, use the
supplied new G-clip.
STEP 21:
Remove the crankshaft by pulling it straight out of the
crankcase.
STEP 22:
The bearings are press-fit into the crankcase. To
remove them, the crankcase must be heated with a
heat gun or torch. The crankcase will expand with
heat and release the bearings. To avoid the possibility
of burns or other damage, do not attempt remove the
bearings. Clean the bearings by flushing them with
denatured alcohol and then place one or two drops of
after-run oil on the races.
STEP 23:
Before installing a new connecting rod, you can
increase connecting rod life by polishing the crankshaft
journal. Use 1200 grit sandpaper to remove the
surface scratches followed by liquid metal polish to
buff the crankshaft journal to a bright, smooth shine.
Rinse thoroughly with denatured alcohol. Lube with
after-run oil.
STEP 24:
Use the 1200 grit sandpaper and the liquid metal
polish on the wrist pin also. Rinse thoroughly with
denatured alcohol and lube with after-run oil.
STEP 13:
Pull the sleeve straight up and out of the crankcase. If
the sleeve will not move, rotate the crankshaft until the
sleeve pushes up.
STEP 14:
Rotate the crankshaft to bottom dead center. Lightly
grab the connecting rod with a pair of needlenose
pliers and gently pull it off of the crankshaft journal.
STEP 17: Removing the clutch and flywheel
It
is
not necessary
to
remove the
clutch
assembly
unless you are servicing the clutch, crankshaft, or
engine bearings. Use the tip of a small screwdriver
to remove the E-clip which holds the clutch bell gear.
STEP 18:
Remove
the
clutch
bell
gear and
the
clutch
shoes.
Note that there are two 5x8mm washers, one on each
side of the clutch bell gear. Check the clutch shoes for
excessive wear or cracking
around the pin holes. If the
clutch shoes are worn to
the
point
that
the clutch
spring contacts the clutch
bell, then the shoes must be
replaced.
STEP 19:
Grip the flywheel with a
pair of pliers (locking pliers
work best). Remove the
clutch
adapter
nut
with
a
10mm deep socket. Hold
the engine just above your
workbench and tap the
flywheel from behind with a
non-marring hammer (plastic or wood). Several easy
blows may be necessary to release the flywheel and
split beveled cone.
STEP 20:
The flywheel and the split-beveled
cone should pull
smoothly
off of the crankshaft.
