9
MAINTENANCE
Nitro Sport requires timely maintenance in order to stay in top
running condition.
Neglecting the maintenance could allow dirt,
deposits, and moisture to build up inside the engine leading to
internal engine failure.
The following procedures should be taken
very seriously.
after each hour of running:
• Clean and re-oil the air filter. The instructions for this procedure are
on page 23.
We cannot stress enough the value of cleaning your
air filter at the scheduled intervals.
The cleanliness and condition
of your air filter directly influences the running life span of your
engine.
Do not skip air filter maintenance!
• Clean the outside of the engine of accumulated dirt, oil, and grime.
Accumulated grime will decrease the engine’s ability to cool itself.
• Tighten the wheel nuts (especially on the left side).
after each running session:
• Perform after-run maintenance on the engine. This clears the
engine of destructive moisture and other corrosive deposits.
This
is extremely important for the life of the engine.
• Inspect the gears for wear, broken teeth, or debris lodged between
the teeth
• Inspect the vehicle for obvious damage or wear. Look for:
1.
Loose or missing screws
2.
Cracked, bent, or damaged parts
3.
Cut or loose wiring
4.
Cut or kinked fuel lines
5.
Signs of fuel leakage
Other periodic maintenance:
•
Connecting rod:
The connecting rod should be replaced when
the piston and sleeve are replaced. Also replace the piston wrist
pin and G-clip whenever the connecting rod is replaced. As with
other internal engine components, connecting rod life depends
on engine’s usage and the quality and frequency of the engine
maintenance. Inspect the connecting rod after three gallons of fuel
have been used.
•
Slipper clutch pads
(friction material): The slipper clutch pegs
will wear over time and require replacement. The life of the pegs
depends on how the slipper clutch was adjusted and how the
Nitro Sport was used. If the slipper will not tighten or you are
seeing signs of wear on the face of the gear, then the pegs should
be replaced.
•
Piston/sleeve:
The life of the piston and sleeve will vary greatly
with how the engine was used and maintained. The piston and
sleeve should be replaced when they no longer seal effectively
(loss of compression). Symptoms include the engine being difficult
to start when warm, stalling when warm, and stalling when
throttle is suddenly closed to idle. Replace the wrist pin and G-clip
whenever the piston and sleeve are replaced.
Centering your Servos
Whenever your radio system has been removed for service or
cleaning, the servos must be re-centered prior to installing the
radio system in the model. If the radio system is installed in the
truck, disconnect the servo horns from the servos.
Connect the steering servo to channel 1 on your receiver and the
throttle servo to channel 2. The white wire on each servo cable is
positioned towards the crystal. Connect the red and black cable
from the battery holder to the “batt” terminal on the receiver. The
red wire is positive and the black wire is negative.
Place fresh AA batteries in the transmitter and turn the power
switch on. Slide the throttle and steering trim adjustments to the
center position. Now install fresh AA batteries into the battery
holder and turn the power switch to the “on” position. The servos
will automatically jump to their center positions. Turn off the
battery holder switch followed by the transmitter. The servos are
now ready to be installed. Be careful not to move the servo shaft
when reinstalling the servo horns.
AFTER-RUN PROCEDURE
You must perform after-run maintenance on your engine whenever
the model will be stored for longer than a few hours. Taking the
time to prepare your engine for storage will reward you with longer
engine life, easier starting, and better performance.
When a nitro engine is shut off, some excess unburned fuel remains
in the engine. The methanol in model engine fuel is hydroscopic,
which means it easily attracts and absorbs moisture. This moisture
can cause rust and corrosion on the steel engine parts (crankshaft,
bearings, wrist pin and starter shaft) if the fuel is not removed
from the engine. There are after-run oil products available from
your hobby dealer or you can use WD-40
™
, a common household
lubricant. To ensure your engine is protected from internal corrosion,
use the following procedure:
1.
Shut off the engine by pinching the fuel line closed. This allows
most of the excess fuel to be consumed by the engine. Be sure
the throttle is in the idle position. You may have to pinch the fuel
line closed for several seconds before the engine stops.
2.
Completely empty the fuel tank. Use your fuel-dispensing bottle
to suck out the old fuel. Do not mix the old fuel with your fresh
fuel supply. If you leave fuel in the tank, transporting or handling
your model may cause fuel to run into the engine.
3.
With the fuel tank empty and the throttle at the idle position, try
to start the engine. The engine will most likely start and run for
a few seconds as it uses up any fuel remaining in the engine and
fuel lines.
4.
Once the engine stops, clean the outside of the engine with
compressed air or spray motor cleaner. Once the engine is
clean and dry, remove the glow plug power wire, glow plug,
and air filter.
5.
Open the throttle fully and spray a one-second burst of WD-40
into the carburetor and into the glow plug hole (Caution! Wear
safety glasses to prevent spray from getting into your eyes). If you
are using after-run oil, follow the manufacturer’s instructions.
6.
Place a rag or paper towel over the engine to catch any WD-40 or
after-run oil that may come out the carburetor or glow plug hole.
7.
Connect the EZ-Start
®
controller to the model and spin the engine
for 10 seconds.
8.
Remove the rag or paper towel and repeat steps 5–7 two
more times.
9.
Clean and re-oil the air filter so it will be ready for use next time.
10.
Replace the glow plug, reconnect the glow plug power wire, and
reinstall the air filter.
