25
0
c.c.
O.H.V. TWIN CYLINDER SCOOTER
REPLACING, THE ENGINE; GEARBOX AND FINAL DRIVE UNIT IN THE FRAME
With the front engine
studs in position, pick up the unit and holding it tilted slightly to the left pass the
rear. drive, unit through the two vertical frame members. Bring the engine upright and slide it into
position so that the two crankcase lugs slide into the mounting brackets on the two vertical frame pillars.
Having placed the unit loosely in position, insert the rear right hand engine mounting bolt through the
lug on the frame and the lug on the crankcase, then pass the left hand bolt through the mounting in a
similar manner. Place the
1
1
'
clip over the main bolt and fit the two small 4" diameter bolts and nuts.
Pick up the L shaped front engine mounting plates and slide each one into position over the front
engine studs so that the feet of the plates are turned outwards; refit the nuts and washers over the studs
but do not tighten completely. Now replace the .bolts
-
through the chassis cross member and tighten down
securely, finally tightening the nuts on the crankcase studs. At this stage the rear damper unit should be
coupled at its upper end to the dual seat carrier.
Replace the curved bearing arm which passes outside the left hand vertical tube by sliding it over
the main bearing bush, which has four holes\equally spaced around its periphery. Insert the three long bolts
which retain the rear end of the 'bearing; arm, passing them through from the rear of the final drive case.
Two of these bolts have flats on their heads which engage in flats on the back of the chaincase, the middle
bolt having a hexagon head. Note that the lower bolt also carries the speedometer cable clip. Replace the
large washer on the front end of the bearing arm, making sure that it is engaged over the dowel pin, and
finally refit the hollow bolt which also carries a grease nipple.
Now pick up the speedometer cable and carefully engage the squared end of the inner cable in the
speedometer drive and screw the cable union nut on to the drive bush. Re-connect the brake cable by
passing the inner cable through the slot in the lug, fit the fork end of the cable over the lever, insert the
clevis pin followed by the washer and finally the split pin. Do not omit to spread the ends of the split pin.
Re-connect the two low tension leads to the coils, the longer ,one going to the right hand coil. Refit the
rear mudguard which is secured by four I " diameter nuts and bolts, two on the cross member between the
two vertical pillars and
two. at
the rear on the bracket which carries the petrol tank and silencer.
The kick-starter chain can now be re-connected to the pedal by re-fitting the spring connecting link,
making sure that the closed end of the spring is facing towards the rear of the machine. Replace the
gearchange lever over the squared end of the gearchange spindle, fit the plain washer, spring washer and
finally the nut. Make sure that the large plain washer is fitted over the-square on the spindle, and is not
trapped between the square and the other washer. Tighten the nut securely. Later models use a special nut
only.
If the fabric distance piece is not already fitted to the carburetter flange studs it should now be re-
fitted, together with the jointing washers and the manifold together with carburetter placed in position.
If the carburetter has been removed from the swan neck manifold make sure that the rubber "0"
ring is in position inside the carburetter body. If this is omitted it is liable to cause air leaks and
consequently :weak mixture and overheating. Refit the two spring washers and I " nuts on to the studs
',holding the inlet manifold and tighten evenly and securely. Do not in any circumstances tighten down
one nut before the other as this is liable to distort the manifold face; and will again result in leakage.
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