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3. Planking Butts
Few trees grow as tall as ships are long.
Consequently, real planks were general-
ly 20 or 30 feet in length. Some builders
think a plank as long as the model is
easier to use. They scribe in fake butts
or omit them. Although this can be
done, working with shorter planks has
its advantages. For example, tapers
mark quicker and only one hand is
needed to hold and fasten the plank.
Should a mistake happen, just a small
piece is affected. So, the following is
based on scale-length planks.
Because this is a plank-on-bulkhead
model, butts must occur on bulkheads
and won't simulate shipwright practice.
Use a 5" to 6" long plank (26 to 32 scale
feet) to cover four bulkhead spaces.
However, to avoid stubby pieces at the
bow and stern, a longer or shorter plank
may be necessary to complete the run.
To emulate shipwright practice, stagger
the butts (Figure 2-2). This also applies to
deck planking. Covering four bulkhead
spaces follows the rule; i.e., three full
plank widths between butts on a single
frame. One plank covering three bulk-
head spaces won't work, because that
leaves only two full planks between butts.
4. Spiling
Edge bending planks on real ships
occurs on a limited basis. Wood is rigid,
so many planks must be cut to shape.
Spiling (Figure 2-3) is simply a matter of
transferring curves to a straight plank,
then sawing them out. In most cases,
basswood strips are flexible enough to
edge bend in place.
Stealers for
Niagara
are shown on the
planking layout at the stern.
5. Fastening the Planks
A screw-type commercial plank clamp
is available, but is more trouble than it
is worth. It screws into bulkheads, leav-
ing a big hole to contend with when
installing subsequent planks. Model
Expo, however, sells a hull planking
clamp that holds planks in place with
side clamps. Or, use aluminum-head
push pins to position planks, but be
careful not to split the wood. If neces-
sary, drill a pilot hole first. Smear a light
film of white or woodworker's glue
along the edge of the plank with your
finger, then touch each bulkhead with
thin cyano to quickly affix the plank.
Be careful not to glue your fingers to
the model.
Another approach is to apply cyano to
the edge of a plank already in place and
on the bulkheads above it. Spray or
brush the cyano's accelerator on the
plank to be installed, then hold it in
place. The glue sets instantly and no
clamps are necessary. However, be sure
to position the plank correctly the first
time, because there isn't a second chance.
While glue alone will secure a plank,
small brass brads or wooden treenails
provide additional holding power and
duplicate shipwright practice. They are
essential on
bright
(unpainted) models
and should be added where each frame
is located on the real ship. If using
brads, cut off and discard the heads,
then hammer in.
Treenails are commercially available, but
making them is easy. Buy a package of
long bamboo skewers, strip off short
lengths, and pull through a drawplate to
the desired diameter. Drill holes through
the plank, dip the treenail in white or
yellow glue, and drive in place. Nip the
dowel flush with the planking. You can
also buy a treenail cutter. This expensive
accessory mounts in a handpiece.
Another alternative is to whittle flat
toothpicks (round ones don't work as
well) to a point. Place the entire tooth-
pick in the hole, rap sharply with a 10-
inch bastard file, and break off the
remaining portion. A file works better
than a hammer, because its serrated sur-
face catches and firmly holds the head
of the toothpick, permitting it to be dri-
ven in tightly. Exterior stubble is
dressed and sanded smooth when
treenailing is completed.
Fig 2-2 Staggering the Planking Butts
Fig 2-3 Spiling the Planks When Edge Bending Cannot be Accomplished
Bulkhead
Real ship: Must have 3 strakes
between butts on same frame
(model meets rule with plank
length selected)
5. Cut out plank
4. Measure width and
mark,draw curve
1. Plank already in place
2. Wood: Lay along bulkheads without edge bending
3. Use compass–run steel point
along plank in place and
mark parallel line on new
plank with pencil end
Real ship: Must be 5' or more
(model meets rule)
