6
How To Work With Plans And Parts
Before starting the model, carefully
examine the kit and study the plans.
First, determine if all the listed parts are
present. Handling them will produce a
better understanding of the kit's require-
ments. Try to visualize how every piece
will look on the model. Also, determine
ahead of time what must be done first.
The instructions will help, but a thor-
ough knowledge of the plans at the out-
set is essential.
To avoid losing small fittings and hard-
ware, sort them into labeled boxes or
compartments. These should have lids to
keep out dirt.
1. The Plans
Six sheets are provided:
1. Laser-Cut Wood Patterns
2. Plank-on-Bulkhead Hull
Construction
3. Hull Plan and Profiles
4. Hull and Spar Details
5. Rigging Profile
6. Rigging Sections and Details
Sketches throughout the manual illus-
trate various construction techniques.
The
Niagara
kit is manufactured to a
scale of 3/16" = 1'0" (1:64). Each plan
sheet is drawn to that scale, except areas
enlarged to show detail. Most dimen-
sions can be lifted directly off the plans
by using draftsman dividers or a "tick"
strip (piece of paper such as an adding
machine roll). Lay the paper strip over
the plan, carefully mark the item's
length with a sharp pencil, then transfer
the marks to the wood.
A 3/16" architect's or 1:64 metric scale is a
handy tool. Measuring and cutting parts
using the scale gives a better feel for real
sizes. Because these are modelbuilders'
plans, actual measurements were con-
verted to the nearest 1/64". For example,
a 7/64" block is 7" on the real ship.
Measurements on the plans are in inches,
but Sheet 3 contains a conversion table
giving equivalent real ship sizes in deci-
mals and millimeters.
2. Making Allowances
Along the Way
Try to be exact when following the plans,
but use common sense. Adjustments
may be necessary to compensate for
small differences in how your model is
shaping up; perhaps one mast has too
much
rake
(angle to the deck). Lines
should not drape over fittings or conflict
with other lines when
belayed
(secured).
If necessary, move a belaying point or
fairlead. Put yourself on the ship, imag-
ine performing the task, and use logic.
3. Understanding Hull Lines
Beginners may not be familiar with hull
lines.
Buttock
lines are vertical longitudi-
nal planes cut through the hull.
Waterlines
are horizontal planes, and
sections
are
transverse vertical planes.
Diagonals
are
diagonal planes cut through the hull.
These lines define the hull's shape and
are used by the draftsman to
fair
it
(create even curves).
A complete set of hull lines is not needed
for this model, because laser-cut bulk-
heads and center keel define the hull.
Sheet 2 shows the bulkheads. They are
similar to a ship's
body plan
or sections,
and illustrate how the hull curves from
top to bottom.
4. Using Basswood Lumber
Basswood comes in 1/32", 3/64", 1/16",
3/32", 1/8", 5/32", 3/16", 1/4", and 1/2"
thick sheets and strips. Strip widths are
in the same increments, while sheets
may be 1", 2", 3", or 4" wide.
Note: Model Shipways occasionally sub-
stitutes lime (
Tilia vulgaris
), a European
wood, for basswood (
Tilia americana
). Both
have a fine, uniform texture and straight
grain. Lime, however, has superior steam-
bending qualities. It is often called bass-
wood in Europe. Based on
Niagara's
3/16" = 1'0" scale, 1/64" equals 1" on the
real ship, 1/32" is to 2", and so on.
Generally, basswood strips or sheets can
be used as is. Occasionally, a strip must be
thinner than the supplied size. To main-
tain scale, sand the strip to the required
thickness with a sanding block before
making the part.
Another way to reduce stock is with a
hobby sanding thickness planer (sold
commercially). Those who don't own one
can chuck a sanding drum into their drill
press, clamp a block alongside the drum
to act as a fence, then insert the strip
between the drum and block. This
makeshift tool works quite well.
VIEW AT DOCKSIDE, ERIE, PA.
