Universal Laser Systems ULS-25 Operation Manual Download

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sponge. We recommend using a kitchen sponge with a nylon string mesh wrapped around it. Dampen
the sponge and wipe off the residue. A damp chamois cloth works well also. Do not use paper towels
or a regular sponge because these materials will get lodged in the engraved area when wiping and are
extremely difficult to remove. A method to avoid cleanup is to mask the wood with transfer tape and
peel off the tape after engraving. If desired, after engraving and before peeling off the tape, spray paint
can be applied to color fill the engraved areas. After the paint dries, peel of the tape. If an intricate
drawing has been engraved and there are many small pieces of tape to remove, it may be easier to
flood the masking, after engraving, with water. This will loosen the tape and it can be easily removed
by rubbing it off by hand. In the vector cutting example, the wood was elevated from the table to let
smoke and heat escape from underneath. If elevating the wood, mask and/or dampen the bottom side
of the wood very lightly and the water acts as a heat sink to prevent the underside from flaming and
charring. Elevating the wood also helps to determine whether the laser has passed completely through
since the cut pieces will fall through to the table when cutting is finished. If raising the wood, set up the
drawing so that the inner pieces of the drawing are cut first, otherwise pieces may fall through at the
wrong time.

Not all wood finishes are created equal. When ordering wood from a supplier, be sure to specify that
it is being used for laser engraving. Some finishes cannot handle the heat from the laser and will bubble,
blister, and possibly turn white. For engraving softer woods such as pine or balsa, reduce the power
settings to acquire the best depth. Engraving too deep on soft woods will reduce quality. Every type of
wood will engrave differently. Experiment with different types of wood and note the results. It is better
to engrave woods that are finished. If engraving unfinished wood and it is not masked with transfer
tape, the smoke residue tends to embed in the wood and is impossible to remove without sanding. To
prevent this, mask all unfinished wood with transfer tape.

WOOD INLAYS - VENEERS

Create a drawing with no outlines, only filled areas. Engrave the filled areas almost as deep as the
thickness of the veneer (usually about .003 inches or less). With some water and a nylon brush,
remove all residue from the engraved area. When cutting veneers make sure they are lying absolutely
flat. In the drawing, give the objects an outline of .001 inches and remove the fill. Adjust the power so
that there is just enough power to cut completely through the veneer. Overpowering the cut will cause
too much material removal and the fit will not be snug. Some software programs allow outline offsetting
to compensate for the thickness of the beam. This is called contouring and is optimal if planning to do
this type of work. Usually, a contour to the outside of the vector line of .006 inches provides a tight fit.
Remember, if using more power to cut through the veneer, compensate for the thicker width of the
laser cut by contouring a little further to the outside.

A good veneer to use are those with an adhesive backing. Once cut, place the veneer into its proper
place on the engraved wood block and with a clothes iron, iron the veneer into the engraved wood.
This melts the glue and causes the veneer to stick to the engraved area. The veneer can now be sanded
flush with the surface and a finish coat applied.