Viking Designer DDFB304, Service Notebook

42

NORMAL OPERATION 

The icemaker always starts from and stops at the “park” position.  In the park position the 
ejector blades are pointing horizontally towards the back of the icemaker.  Just before 
reaching the park position the mold is filled with water.  At the park position all electrical 
components are de-energized, even though the shut-off arm is down, and the icemaker is 
ready for the next freeze cycle. 

The icemaker takes from 30 minutes to one hour to freeze the water.  The primary time 
factors are the temperature in the freezer and the amount of airflow around the icemaker.  
Colder freezer settings and free air space around the icemaker to let air circulate will help 
make ice faster. 

After the ice forms, the icemaker continues to wait until it reaches 15º F before it starts 
the harvest cycle.  This insures that the ice is solid in all the cavities.  At 15º F the 
thermostat closes, the mold heater turns on, and the ejector blades rotate up and forward 
until they stall out against the ice.  The motor is designed to stall out and is geared to 
generate a lot of pressure.  This minimizes the amount of melting needed to extract the 
ice.  As soon as the ice is loose enough to move, the ejector pushes the ice out of the 
mold during the second half of the first revolution.  During the second revolution the 
ejector pushes the ice into the bucket.  Just before the ejector completes the second 
revolution the icemaker turns the water valve on for approximately 7 seconds and refills 
the mold with approximately 4 ounces of water and the freezing cycle is ready to begin 
again. 

TROUBLESHOOTING 

Replace if necessary….

BUT DON’T REPLACE UNTIL YOU ARE SURE IT IS 

THE ICEMAKER.  

Here’s how to tell:  To make ice, an icemaker needs power, water, 

and sub-freezing temperatures. 

ELECTRICAL POWER 

NOTE: The freezer door switch turns off power to the icemaker when the freezer door is 
open.  It will be necessary to manually close the freezer door switch for some 
troubleshooting steps. 

1.

Check that the shut-off arm is down and instruct customer on its use if 
necessary. 

2.

Quick check for power without a test device.  Manually rotate the ejector up 
and forward (clockwise viewed from the motor end) by 1/8 to 1/4 turn or 
remove the cover and rotate the small motor drive gear counter-clockwise 
with a screwdriver.  With hands clear of the icemaker, manually close the 
freezer door switch.  If the ejector begins to rotate (very slowly) there is 
power.  If the ejector does not rotate, go on to Step 3. 

3.

Checking for power with a test device: See figure 4.  unplug the icemaker and 
connect a test light or a voltmeter to the top and bottom terminals of the 4-
pole connector socket.  Manually close the freezer door switch.  If there is 
power, check for water next.  If there is not power at the icemaker connector, 
trace power from the wall socket to the door switch to the connector.  (Con’t)