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CHIMNEY CONNECTIONS continued …
Figure 14 - Fireplace Conversion
enough insulation and/or air cooling on the base, back
and sides so they can be safely installed in direct con-
tact with combustible floors and walls. Although many
prefabricated fireplaces carry endorsements from na-
tionally recognized organizations for use as fireplaces,
they have not been tested for connection to wood stove
heaters. Connecting a stove to such a device will void
the manufacturer’s warranty.
Steel-lined fireplaces are constructed with
1/4” firebox liner, an air chamber in connection with 8”
of masonry. These can be safely used with wood burn-
ing stoves. They contain all the essential components
of a fireplace, firebox, damper, throat, smoke shelf,
and smoke chamber. Many look identical to masonry
fireplaces and should be checked carefully before con-
necting a stove to them.
Venting a stove directly into a fireplace does not
meet code and should not be attempted. The stove war-
ranty will be void with such an installation. Do not create
a hazard in your home by connecting in this manner.
FIREPLACE INSTALLATION
Directly connecting the stovepipe into the existing
masonry chimney (figure 14 “Type A” Fireplace Conver-
sion) of the fireplace is the only approved method of
installation. This is a complicated and involved process
and to insure safety should only by done by a qualified
installer.
1. An entry hole must be cut through the masonry and
tile liner with minimal damage to the liner. At least 8”
of liner must remain below the entry position. When
locating the stove and stovepipe, all minimum clear-
ances must be observed from combustible surfaces
including mantels, combustible trimwork, ceilings
and walls. Positioning the center of the stove pipe
entry into the chimney 24” below the ceiling should
insure proper clearance for a 6” stovepipe.
2. Install a metal or fire clay (5/8” minimum thickness)
thimble. Make sure the thimble is flush with the inner
surface of the chimney liner and does not protrude
into the flue (see figures 10).
3. Secure the thimble with refractory mortar. The
thimble should be surrounded by 12” of solid unit
masonry brickwork or 24” of stone.
4. Install the stovepipe into the thimble as far as pos-
sible without extending past the flue lining (see
figures 9 & 10).
5. A small airspace (about 1/2”) should remain
between the stovepipe and thimble to allow for
expansion of the pipe. Seal this airspace with high-
temperature caulking or ceramic wool.
6. Secure and seal the damper in the closed posi-
tion using high-temp caulking, ceramic wool, or
furnace cement. Also check to see if the chimney
has a cleanout. If it does, make sure it is closed and
sealed as well. A leaky cleanout will greatly reduce
draft efficiency.
If you have any questions regarding venting your
stove, contact the manufacturer or contact the Na-
tional Fire Protection Association (NFPA) and request
a copy of the latest editions of NFPA Standard 211
and NFPA Standard 908. Their address is:
Battery March Park, Quincy, MA 02269.
Call us at 1-866-667-8454
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