15 September 2017
All Dimension are in mm………….Copyright ©
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Due to continued product improvement, Warmington Ind LTD reserves the right to change product specifications without prior notification.
GENERAL INFORMATION & OPERATION
1. Double Skin
The Studio Stove convection stove – it has an inner and outer skin whereby room air flows between the surfaces, thus becoming hot and efficiently heating
the room. Because the outer skin stays relatively cooler, this type of stove is much safer than a full radiation stove (i.e. pot belly) the top & side surfaces will
get hot .
2. Burns Twice
This statement is applied to many modern stoves. The combustion chamber is very efficient – air and volatile gases mix together and are more fully burnt.
Spent gases exit through the flue.
3. Burn control and operation
The air intake disc on the door controls the amount of air drawn into the stove & thus the combustion rate.
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When lighting the stove, the air control should be fully open (turn the air control anti
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clockwise).
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Place paper or fire lighters into the base of the firebox.
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Arrange kindling on top of paper or firelighters, allowing air to move easily through the kindling.
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Light the fire around the base to ensure good ignition of paper or firelighters.
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Leave the door ajar 5 to 10 mm to aid with speedy ignition of the fire.
Do not run the fire for long periods with the door ajar as damage may
result.
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When the fire is happily burning the main fuel loads can be placed into the fire, from the front to the rear in a lined pattern, ensuring that the flames
can easily move through the fuel load
(max tested fuel load approx. 2.2kg).
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Close the door to ensure a seal to the firebox. Once the fire is fully established and burning brightly the air supply can be considerably reduced to
control heat output (and fuel consumption). Note, the air control is designed such that even when fully closed some air still enter the firebox. This
keeps unwanted flue emissions to a minimum.
4. Removing ash
After using your fire for a few weeks, you will find ashes accumulate in the firebox. The ash can be removed easily through the fire door when the fire is
completely out. The amount of charcoal in the ash is often a good indicator of how well you are operating the fire. If there is no charcoal and only very fine ash
then you are doing an excellent job. If there is a lot of charcoal you may be turning the combustion air down to soon after refueling, or not raking the charcoal
to the combustion air inlet, or turning the combustion air down too low to support efficient combustion, or all of the above. Warmington wood
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burning fires
work best when a small amount of ash is left (approximately 25mm deep) in the firebox after cleaning as this aids with stable burning. The ash should be
placed in a non
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combustible container with a tightly fitting lid and moved outdoors immediately to a location clear of combustible materials.
5. Cooking
Because the top of the fire is in direct contact with the flame, it offers a large cooking surface. Ideal for entertaining at home/holiday homes or farm cottages. If
spillage occurs, clean the surface with a soft cloth and dish washing liquid and avoid scratching the surface.
6. Storing/drying fuel
The space below the firebox can be used as a wood storage and drying area. Damp wood is dried naturally while it is stored. Use dry timber preferably cut
and stored under cover from the previous year .
PURCHASING THE FIREWOOD
The quality of the firewood you burn can have a dramatic effect on the efficiency and operation of the heater. The main factors that affect the burning
characteristics of firewood are moisture content, tree species and piece size.
The moisture content of the wood affects the rate at which burns and the efficiency of combustion. When trees are cut, wood moisture content ranges
between 35 and 60 percent by weight. If you attempt to burn wood this wet, it will be hard to ignite, slow to burn and will hiss and sizzle in the firebox.
A lot of energy will be consumed in boiling off the excess water that the efficiency of combustion and the heat to your home will be low, condensation
and corrosion may be occurring in the flue and smoke may be causing problems to your neighbours. Properly seasoned wood ignites readily and
burns efficiently.
Firewood should be cut and split in the early spring and stacked under cover, with good ventilation, to be ready for burning when required. Look and
check for cracks in the end grain as a sign of dry wood. The stacks of firewood should be in an open area so that air can circulate between them.
During the summer, as warm breezes flow through the stacks, carrying away the evaporating water, the moisture content of the wood will fall to around
20 percent. At this moisture content the wood is ready for burning.
Although the energy content of dry wood per kilogram is almost the same regardless of species, softwoods and hardwoods burn differently because of
differences in density. Softwoods, such as pine, are less dense than hardwoods like gums, Manuka or ironbark. A denser wood will produce a longer
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lasting coal bed, while a less dense wood will bring a fire to an optimum burning temperature more quickly.
The size of the firewood pieces affects the rate of combustion. Larger pieces ignite and release their energy more slowly than small pieces. Smaller
pieces are better for short, hot fires and larger pieces are preferable for extended firing cycles. In general, commercial firewood dealers produce fire-
wood in larger pieces than modern wood
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burning appliances can handle. It is often necessary to split some of the wood again before using it.
Firewood harvesting can have an effect on native woodlands and a variety of threatened species. Dead standing and fallen timber provides habitat for
numerous species of animals and birds. Wood heater operators should be encouraged to be sensitive about the source of their firewood. If collecting it
privately, operators should leave some dead wood behind as it provides habitat for birds and animals.
