7.
At this point, if you want to re-lubricate the bushings and stanchion, unscrew the collar and pull the
stanchion out of the upper. Lubrication and reassembly is same as for the air side stanchion.
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8.
Now you are ready to insert the new damper. First, you must slowly pull the lower rod of the damper out so
that it will reach the bottom of the stanchion when installed. If the damper is locked, you must unlock it by
using the blue lockout cap or a 5 mm wrench on the fitting on top of the damper and turning counter-
clockwise. Now slowly pull the rod out until it stops and re-lock the damper.
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9.
Now insert the damper into the upper leg and slowly push down until the threads engage in the top of the
upper leg. You may have to pull the stanchion down to allow the insert to fit. Hand tighten the damper into
the upper. Now carefully tighten the 27 mm silver nut to 12.5 Nm with a torque wrench.
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10.
Turn the fork back upside down and reassemble the rebound fitting from step 5. First, be sure the shaft of
the damper is centered and pushed against the hole on the bottom of the stanchion. You can carefully move
the shaft by inserting an allen wrench into the shaft and move it until it drops into the recess on the bottom of
the stanchion and is now centered. You may have to move the stanchion in or out slightly for the shaft to find
the recess. Now take the time to locate a small detent on the top side of the shaft on the rebound fitting
through the hole in the collar and be sure they are lined up and facing out away from the dropout. You must
line these up with the rebound knob allen bolt later. Screw the fitting into the hole on the bottom of the
stanchion making sure the O-ring and washer are in place. Tighten the 9 mm nut to 5 Nm with a torque
wrench.
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11.
Now you must lineup the detent on the shaft, the hole in the collar and the allen bolt in the red rebound knob
so that the allen bolt tightens through the hole in the collar and into the detent on the shaft. Using a 1.5 mm
allen wrench tighten until the allen bolt makes firm contact with the shaft. The allen bolt should recess into
the hole 2 - 3 turns. If the allen bolt tightens before disappearing into the hole, you have not lined everything
up correctly. Do not over tighten as that will cause the rebound knob to be hard to move. The allen bolt has
loctite applied to it. Over time this could wear off and new loctite should be applied.
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12.
Now turn the fork back upright and reassemble the blue lockout lever from step 3. Notice that there are 6
holes on top of the damper cap. Three have small 1.5 mm allen bolts visible and 3 are open. Loosen the 3
allen bolts just enough so you can rotate the cap counter-clockwise slightly. Now place the blue lockout cap
on the damper shaft and rotate clockwise at least 90° and continue turning until reaching the position you
want for lockout. We recommend the 6 o’clock position pointing back at the rider, but you can position where
you want it. Remove the lockout lever and snug the 1.5 mm allen bolts. This locks in your lockout lever
position. Lightly grease the very small spring and insert into one of the open holes closest to your lockout
lever position. Place the ball on top of the spring.
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13.
Next, place the blue lockout lever on top of the damper in the lockout position you selected and push down
to be sure the lever makes full contact on the shaft. Reapply loctite to the allen bolt, if necessary, insert the
allen bolt and tighten snugly with a 2 mm allen wrench. Damper replacement is complete. Remember to refill
the air spring and reset your sag before riding. If your damper needs repair, we recommend replacement or
sending your damper to one of our authorized service centers.
Thank you for purchasing the Wren Inverted Suspension Fork. To see other fine Wren products, please visit
www.wrensports.com. Should you ever have any questions, comments or just need more information,
please contact us at:
Wren Sports, LLC
106 Camino del Sol
Vallejo, CA 94591
707-652-2737
info@wrensports.com
www.wrensports.com
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