RADIO EQUIPMENT
Check your radio equipment, speed control, motor and batteries for proper
functioning.
SCREWS
When assembling or rebuilding your T1R, if you find that a screw has an
eccentric or defective head, exchange it for the same type in the "last-aid-
package". If you mount the eccentric screw on the chassis instead of
exchanging or replacing it, the screw might tweak the chassis and
negatively influence the car's handling.
LAST-AID PACKAGE
The kit includes a small package with some mounting hardware. We have
prepared and included this special "last-aid-package" for times when you
might lose some of the smaller hardware, either during assembly or when
racing. We know how distracting that situation can be, especially when you
want to keep focused on properly preparing your T1R for the track. This
package contains a few spare pieces of each fastener and clip used on
your T1R that should help you if you get caught in that situation.
REPLACEMENT MOUNTING HARDWARE
Contact your XRAY dealer for replacement mounting hardware, using the
following part numbers:
#30 9300 Hardware Mounting Package
#30 9310 Wheels Mounting Hardware (4+4)
#30 9320 Hex Screw Set for T1 (30)
#30 9400 Body Clip (8)
#30 9401 Long Clip For Transponder (2)
FRONT WHEEL AXLE DISASSEMBLY
In an extreme crash, the front wheel axle may be pressed out, which will
make it hard to disassemble the wheel axle and exchange it, because the
assembly will be recessed inside the steering block.
If this happens, support the block a few centimeters off the table with metal
or wood blocks, and let the hex axle point down towards the table.
Use a small hammer to tap on the end of the drive shaft (you may want to
first remove the plastic blade) until the axle and bearing assembly can be
easily removed from the steering block.
Use a file to remove any material from the
wheel axle that was pressed out along with the
axle assembly.
Maintenance & Tips
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37
BALL CUPS AND SHOCK ENDS
If there is excess play (side-to-side, or lateral play; this doesn't refer to the
'looseness' of the ball cup) in these parts, you need to replace the plastic
part so you get a more responsive suspension setup.
BEARINGS
Freely-rotating bearings are one of the most important factors in getting
maximum performance from a car's drive train. Be especially sure that the
bearings in the steering blocks and rear uprights, as well as the bearings
supporting the ball diffs, are perfectly clean and rotate freely. Check all the
bearings, including the one-way bearing, for wear.
If the bearings start to feel gritty, they should be cleaned and lubricated.
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Remove the bearings from the car, and brush or wipe off any surface dirt
or grime. If you have a bearing cleaner, put the bearing inside and spray
with motor cleaner. If you don’t have a bearing cleaner, put the bearings
in a film canister, and fill 1/2 way with motor cleaner. Put the cap on the
canister, and shake the canister for several few minutes.
Remove the cleaned bearing and wipe off excess cleaner. Then lubricate
ball-bearings with a light oil (for ball-bearings), or one-way oil (for one-
way bearings). If the bearings still feel gritty after being cleaned and
lubricated, or if the bearing races develop excessive play, they may need to
be replaced.
CHASSIS STIFFENING
To stiffen the chassis, we recommend
using the optional #301161 Graphite
Stiff Top Deck.
MOTOR
Between every run, carefully inspect the brushes to ensure that they move
freely in the brush hood. Do this by removing the spring and sliding the
brush in and out of the hood. If the action is not smooth, remove the brush
and wipe it clean. This will help ensure that the brush gets proper contact
with the commutator.
Also after every run, remove the brushes from the hoods and examine the
brush face for wear and/or burning. If there is noticeable wear, replace
them with a fresh pair. If the tip is a purple or blue color, that means they
have been overheated and burnt. Burnt brushes have more resistance that
fresh ones, so be sure to replace them if they are burnt.
Thoroughly clean the brushes every other run. Spray motor cleaner directly
on the commutator area through the brush hoods. Spray in short bursts
until the runoff is clear and clean. After cleaning, apply a small amount of
lightweight oil to each bushing or bearing. Be careful not to apply too
much oil, since this will pick up dirt and contaminate the commutator and
brushes. We recommend you rebuild the motor after every 10 runs by
cutting the commutator. If you have a motor with low winds and high-
capacity batteries, we recommend cutting the commutator more often. We
recommend using lathes from the RC accessory manufacturer with the
highest quality - H
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®.
Maintenance & Tips
Summary of Contents for T1R Raycer
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