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7. Continue to the other three corners, loosening the clamp and lining up the corners one by one.
Drill a total of 8 holes.
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8. Disassemble the four pieces and lay them flat on your worktable with the outsides facing up. Still
with the 1/6” bit, drill four pilot holes about ½” deep in the bottom as indicated on the template,
for the screws that will hold on the feet.
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Note these are the four OUTER holes, nearest the
corners.
9. With the 9/64 bit, or the combo drill / countersink bit,
re-drill the eight small holes you made in the sides, plus
7 other holes as indicated on the templates: one more
on each side, one on the top, and four on the bottom.
NOTE: These four holes on the bottom are the four
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TIP:
You will get
cleaner holes on the inside of
the parts if you can drill straight
through the cabinet parts into a
piece of plywood.
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5. Stand up all four pieces of wood on their FRONT edges on your clean, smooth, flat work surface.
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Dry-fit them together. Use the bar clamp to snug the pieces together as shown.
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If your clamp
has no plastic pads, DO NOT OVER-TIGHTEN or you’ll mar the wood. It just needs to be snug.
Pick one corner and line up the pieces of wood as carefully and accurately as you can.
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Be
sure the faces (the sides touching the table) are flush to each other at the joint.
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If the parts are
not precisely the same width (it happens), they will be a tiny bit uneven on the back face (that
is, the sides facing up). That’s okay; don’t worry about it – it’s the back. You can fix it later when
finishing the cabinet.
When you are satisfied with the alignment of one corner, tighten the clamp to secure the parts
for drilling.
Take your time with this step. The overall neatness of your cabinet depends on getting this step right.
6. Fit your drill with the 1/16” bit, sticking out about 1-1/8”. These break easily; you may want to
pick up a spare. At the corner you lined up, drill two holes at your marks, through the side and
into the mated wood piece.
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