®
Australian Railway Kits
ABN: 27 416 246 418
Incorporating Main West Models
Manufacturers, Wholesalers and Retailers of Quality Australian Model Railways
PO Box 252 Warwick, Queensland, 4370 Australia
Phone/Fax: 617 4667 1351 Website:
www.arkits.com
Email: info@arkits.com
NSWGR C34 4-6-0 LOCOMOTIVE
AND TENDER KIT
E214 Manufactured Exclusively for AR Kits by DJH Engineering from Patterns owned by AR Kits
PLEASE READ INSTRUCTIONS THOROUGHLY BEFORE COMMENCING ASSEMBLY
CONSTRUCTION
This is kit of the C34 can be built to represent either the original version with round cab windows or the re-built version with square
cab windows. If building the re-built version you will need to add the later period valance plates (
81x2
). If you are building the
original version round cab windows you will need to remove the small triangular plate from the top of the rear splashers (
82xpair
) -
see
Drawing 1
.
Construction
It is important to ensure that all parts are clean, free of "flash" (excess metal on the castings) and fit properly. The "flash line" is
easily removed from most areas by scraping gently with a sharp hobby knife - a round blade is more effective than a straight
pointed type. Pull the blade along the "flash line" - several light strokes are better than a single one. Some areas are better cleaned
up with 6" jewellers' files. Take care not to flatten round parts by filing too heavily. All locating holes for detail fittings should be
pre-drilled to the size specified in the instructions. Sometimes it is necessary to clean out these holes with a "rat tail" file; take care
not to snap off the tip of the file. Gently wash the castings in warm soapy water to remove mould release residue.
Etched brass items are best removed from the fret by placing the fret on a scrap piece of hard timber (eg Pyneboard) and cutting the
tabs with a large Stanley knife - cut the tab at the point furthest away from the part, then trim the tab off close to the part with a
small pair of quality side cutters. Hold small parts with a pair of flat nosed (not serrated jaws) pliers while cleaning up with
jewellers' files. Be careful not to distort the etchings; they are difficult to straighten if bent or twisted. Drill all required holes before
assembly, noting the spigot sizes of the fittings, because some holes will be difficult to drill after parts are assembled.
Modellers are advised to check photographs of the particular locomotive they have chosen to model, also keeping in mind the era
they are modelling. For assistance in general detailing, modellers are referred to photos of the C34 which appear in the books "34 &
35 Classes" by M. Moraham, and "Essays in Steam" by R. Preston.
These kits are designed to give many years of operating pleasure. A little extra time taken during construction will ensure that your
kit will do this. It cannot be emphasised too strongly that the basis of a smoothly operating model is care when constructing the
chassis and valve gear, ie you must double check every step. Check that the axles turn freely in their bearings, check again with the
coupling rods on, then again with the connecting rods on, etc, etc.
Assembly methods
The two main construction methods are:
(a) Low melt solder - Low melt solder is an excellent medium for use with white metal kits. It is quick and easy providing a
stronger joint than can be achieved with glue. It has the added advantage of easily repairing minor casting flaws, and because of the
relatively low temperature, many parts can be held in the fingers while soldering. Brass to white metal joints can also be made by
"tinning" the brass first with normal solder. Low melt soldering requires the correct type of soldering iron (eg Dick Smith T2000).
These irons have temperature control, as low melt solder has a eutectic point between 70 to 138 degrees C. You should use special
low melting point solder, such as that available from AR Kits.
IT IS ADVISABLE NOT TO ATTEMPT TO SOLDER ANY CASTINGS WITH A STANDARD SOLDERING IRON
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