If you feel confident that you do not need to read through these instructions, see page 2…. January 09
Feedback….
As we are forever trying to make sure you are our happiest customer, we are always on the look-
out for ways in which we could do better. Please fax us on
06 878 5758
or send us an email to
feedback@gardenmastersheds.co.nz with your thoughts. To help you we have listed a few aspects
that we would like you to comment on. You do not have to include your details, but if you do we
will forward you a
free
gift.
1.Finding out about our range of garden sheds and the various options we offer….
2.The store and the sales person that you purchased from….
3.The delivery and the overall dealings for the purchase of your shed….
4.The assembly of your shed and clarity of instructions….
5.Did the shed fit your needs? What will you order differently next time?
Well done you have finished the panels….
Points to note as you construct your shed:
Do not
attempt to assemble panels in windy conditions
Make
sure your foundations are squared and level before erecting panels.
It is
easier to remove all swarf (filings) before you stand your walls up
Complete
all
panels
before erecting your shed.
Keep a firm grip on panels when handling. If they slip they will cause damage.
Always wear non slip gloves protective footwear and eyewear
.
5: Now to join your corners and put your roof on….
1st: Stand up the back wall and as your helping hand is holding it up bring the one end wall into meet it at the left corner
overlapping the corners as Fig
1
. Drill & Fix at approx 100mm down from the top and up from the bottom drilling
and fixing from the outside. Make sure the walls are sitting flat and flush at the bottom.
2nd: Bring the other end wall into the right back corner and perform the same again checking the bottoms
are flush
3rd: Bring the front wall into place and join the front corners to the end walls same as the back.
4th: Finish joining corners by fixing at approx 300mm apart. You will find it easier to drill these corners if
they are supported on the inside. Use the handle end of a hammer into the inside of the corner, but
beware of drilling holes in the end of your hammer.
5th: With a person at each end of the roof panel with the Ridge beam attached, waft it over top of your
upright walls and lower down on top. Have your helping hand go inside and make sure the roof panel
is centralised by having the ridge beam sitting right on the apex of the channel at the peak of the end
wall. Fix the “L” thru the top channel to both end walls at the 1st rib in from the lowest corner mak-
ing sure it is still centralised. The ridge beam will not be held down at this stage.
6th: Now waft the 2nd roof panel onto the walls, slipping it into the ridge beam. Make sure it is sitting
firmly into ridge beam and then fix it to the inside flange of the ridge up underneath. (Fig 2) Now
finish off fixing the “L”s to the top channels at both ends. Fix at 300mm apart and also thru end of
ridge beam into “L”s. If you find the roof is binding and not wanting to sit squarely on the walls, this
will be caused by unlevel site
or
walls are not square. Adjust accordingly.
7th: Using your ladder and tape measure, fix down thru the top of the roof, thru the pan into the top
channel of front and back walls. (10mm more than the overhang). Fix beside every 2nd rib. (Fig 3).
You will not need to worry about these fixings leaking as any water seeping thru these fixings will
end up on the outside of the walls.
8th: Attach padbolt to door strap and fit door braces if not already done so. Check that all swarf is re-
moved and most importantly….
9th: Fix your shed down to its foundations. If your foundations are unlevel or bowed, you will have prob-
lems with your padbolt and door levels. This can be fixed by slipping a spade under either door jamb
and lifting. You will soon get a feel for which side needs propping up.
Well done!
If you choose to vary from these instructions your warranty will be impaired.
Pg 4
Recessed floor clamps
For especially poured floors
with recess around perimeter.
Flat floor clamps
For existing concrete only.
Water can seep underneath.
Fig
1
Fig
3
It is
utmost
essential that every shed has
a floor, but the only way to make sure
your shed is there to stay on windy sites is
with a recessed concrete floor
and
phone
0800 80 SHED
for more free advise
.
Fig
2
Bottom flange sits on top channel
of end walls
If you feel confident that you do not need to read through these instructions, see page 2…. January 09
GM3830
- Gable Roof Shed
3770mm W x 3030mm D x 1830 - 2090mm H
ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS
“
This shed has
1 Box
and
1 Channel pack
”
Quick Tips to keep in mind as I build my shed:
Try to remove swarf (drill filings) from panels as I assemble them.
My basic job is to cap the sheeting to make the panels. Drill & Fix.
All components are cut to length.
Do not
cut any parts unless instructed.
They are only a phone call away
0800 807 433
or email to info@gardenmastersheds.co.nz
Fixings thru the
inside
of the channels into the sheeting are just as
important
as the
outside.
What tools will I need?
Drill and drill bits - 3.3mm (1/8th”) for shed and 5mm (3/16th”) for padbolt
Screwdriver or Riveter. (Note: all colour sheds come with rivets only)
Tape measure for roof overhang.
Ladder for fixing down thru the top of the roof.
Tin snips for a small nik on top channel of gable end walls only.
Non slip gloves, good shoes, goggles, a helping set of hands and
no
gusty winds!
My basic
pa
rts list…..
(fo
r
st
an
dar
d
sh
ed
s)
P
leas
e c
hec
k
par
ts
c
ar
ef
ul
ly
an
d a
dv
is
e i
m
m
edi
ate
ly
if an
y d
am
age o
r
lo
ss
.
7 x 1830mm Sheets for back
10 x 1600 sheets for roof.
1 x 740mm wide sheet with
door jamb attached
Door pre-hinged
to 2nd 740mm sheet
with door jamb
Pg 1
1 x Pack of fixings with padbolt
Screws for Zincalume sheds
Rivets for Colour sheds
2 x “Z” Door braces
4 x 1600mm “L”s for
flashing roof to end
walls
4 x 3745 channels for roof
2 x 3000 channels for bottom &
2 x 3045 channels for top of
end walls
4 x 3745 channels with ends cut for
Front & Back walls
2 x 793 Door spacers
1 x 3770mm Ridge Beam
2 x Small &
2 x Large Gable plates for gable
ends
4 x 1960mm Sloping sheets &
4 x 2090mm Sloping sheets
for end walls
