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Summary of Contents for 1249

Page 1: ...INSTRUCTIONS MODEL 1249 ZIG ZAG SEWING MACHINE ZD ...

Page 2: ...nse for conditions beyond our control Advice on the operation and care of your machine is always available at your nearest Sears Retail Store Please remember any correspondence or reference to your machine must mention the model number and serial number of your machine Kenmore Sewing Machine Record in space provided below the model number and serial number of this appliance The model num ber and s...

Page 3: ... 7 Sewing Light t8 Seam Guides 19 Presser Foot Lever 19 Accessories Needles 20 Needle Thread and Fabric Chart 21 Presser Feet 22 Section I Starting to Sew 1 Garment Construction Stitches Straight Stitching 2 Zigzag Stitching 3 Stretch Stitching 4 Special Finishing Stitches Buttonhole Making 5 Blind Hemming 6 Satin Stitching Appliqueing 7 Zipper Application 8 Mending Darning 9 Button Sewing Bar Tac...

Page 4: ... Cover Thread Guide 8 Face Cover Plate 9 Take up Lever 10 Upper Thread Guides 1 1 Stitch Selector 12 Stitch Width Control 13 Stretch Stitch Control 14 Stitch Length Control 15 Reverse Stitch Control 16 Light and Power Switch 17 Buttonhole Stitch Adjustor 18_ Extension Table 19 Support Leg 20 Shuttle Cover 2t Free Arm ...

Page 5: ...acle 23 Nomenclature Plate 24 Clutch Knob 25 Hand Wheel 26 Bobbin Winder 27 Thread Spool Pins 28 Bobbin Winder Tension Disc 29 Pressure Regulator 30 Presser Foot Lever 3t Thread Cutter 32 Presser Foot Thumb Screw 33 Feed Dogs ...

Page 6: ...r is available to carry the machine when needed To install machine in carrying case set machine into base with word FRONT in base facing you Fig 2 4 Place cover on machine with word SEARS on handle facing you The case slopes in the same direction of the machine Fig_ 3 Push the speed control plug onto three prong connector_ Plug machine cord into any 110 120 volt wall outlet Turn on power by poshin...

Page 7: ... _ __i_ Fig_ I Fig 2 1 Remove the extension table from the machine by folding the support leg up and pulling table to the Ieft Fig 1 2 2 To replace the table simply slide it along the free arm to its original position and place supporting leg in down position Fig 1 ...

Page 8: ...gh hole in bobbin as shown 4 Place bobbin onto bobbin winder shaft with end of thread coming from the top of the bobbin Push bobbin winder shaft to the right until it clicks Holding onto end of thread start machine When bobbin is slightly filled sn_p off end of thread 5 Wind thread until winder stops Remove bobbin Clip thread 6 Tighten clutch knob ...

Page 9: ... hand wheel toward you 3 To remove bobbin case from shut tle pull open latch of bobbin case 4 Pull bobbin case straight out of shuttle 5 Insert bobbin into bobbin case making sure thread is coming from bobbin as shown 6 Pull thread through slot of case as shown 7 Pull thread under tension spring 8 Holding latch open position case into shuttle and release latch Case should lock into place when latc...

Page 10: ... loop up and past the top hook until the thread can be slipped into the hook See Fig 2 When the thread is released the spring wire loop will re turn to position See Fig 3 with thread in proper place Release spool of thread and continue to thread ma chine exactly as shown Needle must always be threaded in direction as shown in Fig 4 Hold needle thread loosely in left hand and rotate hand wheel towa...

Page 11: ...e tighter the tenston There are many reasons for having to reset your tension_ The best tension for one fabric may not be correct for another The required tension depends upon the stiffness of the fabric thickness of the fabric numbers of layers of fabric be ing sewn as well as the type of stitch you are making It is best to test the stitching on a scrap of the fabric you are using before start in...

Page 12: ...stitch is satisfactory but the seam is puckered it may be necessary to loosen the tension on both the top and bottom threads Be sure to balance them as indicated on Page 9 When adjusting the tension on the bobbin case make _ adjustments with a screwdriver D2CREASE iEHStON Turn Counter Clockwise Turn Clockwise ...

Page 13: ...Usethe appropriate type of thread and needle Usedifferent colors of thread on the bobbin and upper spool Sewa line of medium zig zagstitches_The bobbin thread should not show on the top of the fabric Adjust the top tension if necessaryto achievethe stitch formation mentioned above UNDESIRABLE DESIRABLE L L TOP SIDE OF FABRIC ...

Page 14: ...i The number on stitch length control indicates the approximate number of stitch_ inch The stitch setting you use will be determined by the thickness of the fabric you are sewing i longer stitch setting should be used for thicker fabric or more layers of fabric Themiddle range of the control is the t0 12 stitch per inch range which is the ommonly used basting stitch is made by using the longest po...

Page 15: ...WIDTH O LENGTH ...

Page 16: ... ...

Page 17: ...d L Stitches printed in orange on the dial may be obtained with Stretch Stitch Con trol set at horizontal position _ i i i i_ _ili TIT_2 i i i Ii2 _t _ BT Td The setting illustrated is the one used for most of your stitching At this set ting you may make straight stitch and straight stretch stitch As each stitch is dependent upon the setting of your other controls careful ly read the directions in...

Page 18: ...sition When the Stretch Stitch Control is turned to middle position between S and L a smocking stitch is obtained For directions see the next section of this book NOTE i ii _ _ _ L Serging or pine leaf stretch _s used for seam finishing on all types of fabrics It is a stitch used in the garment in dustry It forms a good looking seam stitching and overcasting the edges This stitch is useful for sea...

Page 19: ...sure regulator This will release the pressure on the presser foot See above To increase the pressure push down inner pin until a suitable pressure is ob tainedo Insufficient pressure may cause poor feeding of the fabric skipped stitches or difficulty in guiding the fabric If feed dogs or presser foot marks appear on the fabric reduce the pressure When sewing multiple thickness or heavy fabric redu...

Page 20: ... leave the machine un attended just turn off the switch and the machine cannot be started accio dentally The sewing light is located in the face cover as shown To replace the bulb turn the light off and open the face cover Push the bulb up and turn the bulb counter clockwise and remove it from the socket Push a new bulb in and turn it clock wise NOTE First unplug the machine prior to re moving and...

Page 21: ...IS THE ALL IMPORTANT 5 8 SEAM LINEo Cornering Guide The cornering guides are convenient when turning a square corner 5 8 from the fabric edge See next section of this book for directions To aid you in the placement of heavy fabrics under the presser foot the lever can raise foot beyond the normal up position This is also an aid in changing your presser feet ...

Page 22: ...th Q Needle with blue shank is avail able at any store or service center of Sears Roebuck and Co This special needle is to be used when sewing cer tain knits and difficult synthetic fab rics if you experience skipped stitches in any of your sewing use Q Needle Raise needle bar to its highest position by turning the hand wheel toward you Loosen the needle clamp screw Holding the needle with the fla...

Page 23: ...on 4 RED i Mercerized Heavy Duty 1 or Polyester Core Cotton 16 PURPLE Wrap Silk A Heavy Duty Mercerized Cotton Polyester Core Cotton Wrap Silk A 18 GREEN i 16 PURPLE 18 GREEN or Q BLUE Buttonhole Twist Use as top thread only Polyester Core Cotton Wrap 50 Mercerized Cotton 12 stitches per inch 10 to 12 stitches per inch 8 to 10 stitches per inch 8 stitches per inch 6 stitches per inch 10 for Regula...

Page 24: ...rom the bottom Tighten the screw using the large screw driver to make certain the foot is secure A B C D You have been given a variety of presser feet Ao Zigzag Foot B Satin Stitch Foot C Zipper Foot D Buttonhole Guide Foot NOTE Additional feet and attachments are available at most large retail stores or through the catalog Please select attachments for left needle position with low bar ...

Page 25: ...ads during the sewing of the first 3 or 4 stitches of the seam 3 Test the machine stitch on a scrap of fabric you plan to use The fabric should be double thickness Adjust the machine for the length of stitch and tension su itable to your fabric 4 Fabric should be placed under the presser foot with the bulk of the material to the left of the needle and the right edge of the material placed on the 5...

Page 26: ...hing are Basting Stay stitching Guide line marking 2 Permanent stitching This is the actual stitching that holds the garment togeth er Much of this stitching is visible on the outside of the garment and there fore must be good looking The best length stitch to use for medium weight fabrics is 10 t2 stitches per inch This is in the middle range of the Stitch Length Control You must remember to leng...

Page 27: ...ol and complete seam When you reach the end turn the con trol clockwise and sew back over 1 2 inch of completed seam TURN3NG A SQUARe2 CQRf JER To turn a square corner 5 8 from the fabric edge stop stitching with the needle tip piercing the fabric when reaching the cornering guide as shown Raise the presser foot turn fabric New stitching line will align with 5 8 seam guide on side of needle plate ...

Page 28: ...ASTING This is one of the more frequently used zigzag stitches in garment construction You may want to overcast along the raw edge of each seam allowance or fold the raw edge toward the garment and stitch Fig 1 shows the raw edge finished Fig 2 illustrates the folded edge stitched Stitch so the needle pierces the fabric just short of the outside edge Raw or worn edges of older garments can be over...

Page 29: ...dth Control 0 Stitch Length Control Stretch Stitch Control Zigzag Presser Foot G maYP o between S and L Use this stretch stitch with knitted fabric and other fabrics that stretch Sew as you do with regular straight stitch seaming The seam may be press ed open as with any regular seam but will stretch if necessary This is also a good stitch to use on curved seams regardless of the type of fabric An...

Page 30: ...top stitch as well SETTINGS STRETCH N N N N N N X N N Step 1 Make a straight line of gathers across the fabric that you wish to smock Step 2 Settings Stitch Selector _i_ Stitch Width Control 5 Stitch Length Control _ 6 Stretch Stitch Control marl between S and L Zigzag Presser Foot With a narrow strip of fabric directly under the line of gathering stitch over the gathers The design will be a serie...

Page 31: ... garments that require stretch Fig shows the raw edge finished Stitch so the needle pierces the fabric just short of the outside edge Raw or worn edges of older garments can be overcast to prevent further raveling _ _Gh _JG OR PINE L_A_ o I _ TCH _TIT_ _ IIR G SETTt NGS Sti_ch Selector _ Stitch Width Control 5 SIitch Length Control 6 Stretch Stitch Control mark Zigzag Presser foot The serging or p...

Page 32: ...orward stitches of stretch sew ing with reverse motion stitches To shorten stretch stitches turn the con trol slightly toward S To lengthen turn toward L _ i _ i_ i L C C C SHELL STITCHi _JG This stitch used on the edge of nylon tricot makes a lovely Shell finish Use the following settings SETTINGS Stitch Selector _ Stitch Width Control 5 Stitch Length Control o 18 Stretch Stitch Control Horizonta...

Page 33: ...h on your garment Place the fabric with the buttonhole marked under the buttonhole foot_ Pull the guide foot A all the way forward so that the index mark B is align ed with the graduation C with thread to rear Reproduction of the identical size buttonholes is facilitated with the aid of the gra duations on the left side of the buttonhole guide foot These gra duations are t 5 apart Graduations act ...

Page 34: ...ole Stop sewing at the left stitch Raise the needle to its highest position Step 4 5 Set stitch selector at I_ again and bartack several times to finish the buttonhole Always make a practice buttonhole on a scrap of fabric you plan to use Try the buttonhole with the button you will use Always use an interfacing in area of garment where buttonholes are placed Tissue paper or regular interfacing can...

Page 35: ...of stitching ajust the stitchings by buttonhole stitch adjusteh When the left side of buttonhole is coarse turn the adjuster toward the plus direction When the right side is coarse turn the adjuster toward the minus direc tion After you finish buttonhole sewing put the adjuster back to the original positiom ...

Page 36: ...urn up hem appropriate width Fig 1 2 Fold garment away from hem leav ing 1 8 of hem edge extending Fig 2 Edge Fig 2 Fig 3 Right Side of Hem _ t _ i _ f tl b i Fig 4 3 Place garment under presser foot in such a manner that straight stitches will be sewn on extended edge The zigzag stitch should just catch the fold of the garment Fig 3 4 Press both sides of the finished hem The right side of the gar...

Page 37: ...soft fabric use a backing of tissue paper or inter facing for a well formed stitch Puckering of the material will be eliminated and the bobbin thread will not be visible on the right side of the fabric As with all special stitches it is best to make a sample design on your fabric before starting the design on the garment o_ i tt l se _ _ SStiP bc _I _ 8S WI i i b EC_ q_i Setect an applique design ...

Page 38: ...the screw and bring the foot to the right side of the needle _NV_S BLE Z_PPER Adjust the foot so the needle is sewing through the center hole of the foot and one groove of the foot is riding on the teeth of the zipper See Fig 2 Fol low the zipper manufacturer s instruc tions After zipper has been inserted finish sewing seam by shifting foot to side position sewing through side notch CORDING Foot c...

Page 39: ...s well to use a piece of fabric under the tear for rein forcement b_ C_ VViC i O_uuI St ch Le ng th Co nlLro I o _ to t0 St_e tch Sdtciq Control Horizontal resset Foot P_ essure 0 4_g __ag Poor Stretch fabric between embroidery hoops with hole centerd Lower presser bar and sew at a slow speed moving fabric back and forth with a steady rhythm to cover darning area When it is covered turn fabric I 4...

Page 40: ...nter left hole of the button 4o Turn hand wheel again by hand so needle enters second hole Readjust stitch width if necessary Stitch a number of times Finish sewing with an extra two inches of thread remaining Draw these threads to reverse side of garment and tie 4 SETTINGS Stitch Setector _ Stitch Width Control 1 to 5 Stitch Length Control Green Zone Stretch Stitch Control Horizontal Zigzag Press...

Page 41: ...e easily Just slip the sleeve or pants leg on the free arm as shown above You will find many uses for this free arm feature such as 1 Mend elbows and knees of garments more easily 2 Sew in sleeves more easily This is especially true when sewing smaller garments_ 3 Applique embroider or hem around edges of cuffs or pants legs 4 Sewing in elastic casings in skirts or pants at the waistNne ...

Page 42: ...o 0 h r 00 E 0 _ _L D CO E 0 4 _J O_ m_ 3 J m I _oE _ oE_ 3 Q g_ 0 0 j N _o 8 o o_ oo 0 _ 13 0 ro 0 _JD 5 37 t o E I3 0 A_ _ r_ _ _ ...

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Page 44: ...ee of dust lint and occasional tangled thread Raise the needle bar to its highest point and remove the bobbin case 2 Push levers of shuttle race aside and lift shuttle race cover and shuttle out 3 Clean the shuttle race with small brush 4 Put a drop of oil on the center pin of the shuttle and shuttle race see arrows To Replace Shuttle Assembly 1 Position shuttle race as illustrated so that race is...

Page 45: ...Removearm cover plate to oil points indicated in top of machine head To re movecover plate loosenup two top screwsand lift the coverplate asillustrated below ...

Page 46: ...OILING lJ_HDEE_S_ E Tilt machine head back and remove bottom covers to oil points indicated on underside of machine To remove bottom covers remove screws A B C and D as shown below B D ...

Page 47: ...Open faco corot plate and o11 points in illustration_ I ...

Page 48: ...PAW_S L_ SY 1 2 3 4 5 8 9 10 11 12 13 18 19 20 14 15 16 17 21 ...

Page 49: ...tle Bobbin case Bobbin box with 10 bobbins Bobbin winder rubber ring Thread spool pin Nylon disc No 9 Single needles BRN 16 17 18 19 20 21 These items are not furnished with th instructions above No 11 Single needles ORG No 14 Single needles RED No 16 Single needles PUR 6554 6746 36353 6488O10O5 40390 687O 593401008 6757 6864 6797 40164 33379 6830 41670 41669 6889 6530 No 18 Single needles GRN Q N...

Page 50: ...__ _ i_ _ _ ii l _q z I il ...

Page 51: ...90 DAY WARRANTY ON ALL PARTS AND MECHAN ICAL ADJUSTMENTS For 90 days from the date of purchase Sears will free of charge replace any parts and provide mechanical service necessary for proper operation of the sewing machine except for normal maintenance i i i To obtain warranty service described above SIMPLY CONTACT THE NEAREST SEARS STORE OR SERVICE CENTER IN THE UNITED STATES This warranty applie...

Page 52: ...ur Sewing Machine will be shown on your nomenclature plate on the back of your Sewing Machine_ See Section 1 page 3 for location WHEN ORDERING REPAIR PARTS ALWAYS GIVE THE FOLLOWING INFORMATION MODEL NUMBER NAME OF ITEM PART DESCRIPTION If the parts you need are not stocked locally your order will be electronically transmitted to a Sears Repair Parts Distribution Center for handling SEARS ROEBUCK ...

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